19/04/2021 par Camille Bougault
Un trésor du patrimoine naturel libanais
![](https://patrimoinedorient.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Vallee-de-Qadisha-1.jpg)
Au nord du pays du cèdre, nichée sur les hauteurs du Mont-Liban, se trouve la vallée (wadi en arabe) de la Qadisha, un haut lieu du patrimoine naturel et spirituel libanais. Cette vallée dite « sainte » respire et inspire le mysticisme par ses canyons escarpés et sa nature luxuriante. La légende veut qu’elle fût le lieu de nombreux mythes bibliques tel que la Genèse. Adam et Eve y auraient en effet vécu avant le péché originel et avant l’exil dans les montagnes arides qui surplombent la vallée : le « désert de pierre ». Aujourd’hui menacée par le réchauffement climatique et le développement urbain, ce patrimoine exceptionnel est en danger alors même qu’il est inscrit au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO depuis 1998.
La forêt des Cèdres de Dieu
Le poète libano-américain Khalil Gibran, né dans le village de Bcharré surplombant la vallée de la Qadisha, décrit dans ses poèmes une nature resplendissante dont on dit qu’elle lui aurait été inspirée par sa région d’origine » [1].
As-tu comme moi fait de la forêt ta demeure et déserté les palais / Suivi les rivières et escaladé les rochers / T’es-tu purifié de parfum et imprégné de lumière / As-tu bu le nectar de l’aube dans des coupes sans corps
Khalil Gibran
La Qadisha est en effet scindée par de grands canyons qui lui confèrent son paysage accidenté et escarpé. La rivière Nahr Qadisha qui traverse la vallée pour se jeter dans la Méditerranée, prend sa source d’une caverne dont l’eau a creusé de vastes salles ornées de concrétions calcaires. La wadi possède aussi une grande biodiversité tant au niveau de sa faune que de sa flore et abrite notamment la hyène rayée, l’animal national libanais.
![](https://patrimoinedorient.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Qadisha-2.jpg)
A l’est de Bcharré, une forêt de cèdres (Cedrus Libani) centenaires et, pour certains, millénaires recouvrent les pentes du Mont-Liban. La Horsh Arz el-Rab, la forêt des Cèdres de Dieu, est le vestige de la forêt de cèdres qui couvrait à une époque une grande partie de la montagne libanaise. Les cèdres jouent en effet un rôle central dans la vie de la région et de ses habitants depuis des siècles. Appréciés pour leur parfum, leur grande résistance et pour la taille de leur fût, la civilisation phénicienne les exportait dans ses comptoirs et les utilisait notamment pour la construction de ses navires emblématiques. Il est aussi dit que le Roi Salomon en commanda une grande quantité au Roi Hiram de Tyr pour la réalisation du premier Temple de Jérusalem au Xème siècle av. J.-C.
Lieu marquant de la culture orientaliste du XIXème siècle, la forêt abrite le Cèdre de Lamartine qui commémore le passage du poète dans cette région. Foudroyé par la foudre en 1992, cet arbre a été transformé par l’artiste libanais Rudy Rahmé en 1994 en une sculpture naturelle. Alphonse de Lamartine parle en effet longuement de la Qadisha dans son œuvre Voyage en Orient :
Vaste nerf naturelle dont le ciel est le dôme, les crêtes du Liban, les piliers, les innombrables cellules des ermites creusées dans les flancs du rocher, les chapelles (…)
Alphonse de Lamartine
Patrimoine spirituel : un refuge maronite
![](https://patrimoinedorient.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Qadisha-3.jpg)
Comme le décrit Lamartine dans son récit de voyage, la Qadisha est un haut lieu de la spiritualité chrétienne. La région est en effet considérée comme le berceau du culte maronite. Ce culte oriental chrétien né au nord de la Syrie au IVème siècle trouve dans cette région escarpée une échappatoire aux nombreuses persécutions[2]. Au Xème siècle avec l’intensification du courant, et la destruction du monastère de Saint-Maron, monastère éponyme du saint Maron qui fut le père fondateur du maronisme, de nombreux moines maronites s’établissent alors dans la vallée. Quand certains décident d’une vie en petite communauté dans des monastères, d’autres préfèrent la solitude et la réclusion de petites grottes creusées dans les flancs calcaires de la montagne. L’érémitisme s’inscrit dans la tradition maronite : saint Maron, le saint patron et « fondateur » de l’Eglise Maronite, vivait isolé en ascèse tout comme saint Charbel, prêtre thaumaturge, saint patron du Liban et premier maronite canonisé par Rome en 1977. Cette importante culture érémitique se diffuse bientôt largement dans la vallée notamment car la rudesse du paysage garantit une isolation totale du monde. Partageant leur temps entre le recueillement et le travail de la terre, les anachorètes[3] ont transformé les paysages de la Qadisha : les terrassements réalisés pour la culture de la terre, encore visibles et utilisés aujourd’hui, sont une trace du passage des ermites et plus généralement des religieux.[4]
![](https://patrimoinedorient.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Qadisha-4.jpg)
De nombreux couvents et monastères sont ainsi disséminés dans la région. Le monastère Notre-Dame de Qannoubine, le plus ancien, aurait été fondé par l’empereur romain Théodose le Grand au IVème siècle. Preuve de son importance, il fut le siège du Patriarcat maronite pendant plus de cinq siècles (1440-1823).[5] Son église est construite à même la roche et comporte des peintures murales remarquables, en particulier celle du couronnement de la Vierge par la Trinité surplombée par une inscription en garshuni[6] issu du Cantique des Cantiques : « Viens du Liban, ma fiancée et tu seras couronnée ».[7]
![](https://patrimoinedorient.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/MAAR-1024x682.png)
Autre monastère, celui de Maar Licha, ou Saint-Elisée, a aussi joué un rôle majeur dans l’histoire maronite. Considéré comme un point de ralliement pour les « Deir »[8] proches : les ermites y prient et y célèbrent la messe avant de retourner à leur vide de solitude. Il est aussi célèbre pour son église communautaire constituée de quatre petites chapelles creusées dans la falaise.
Enfin les monastères de Saint Antoine Qozhaya fondé, selon la tradition, au IVème siècle et celui de Notre-Dame de Hauqqa (Saydet Hauqqa), culminant à plus de 1150m d’altitude constituent deux autres sites religieux primordiaux de la vallée.
Protéger ce patrimoine
Afin de protéger ce patrimoine naturel et religieux largement délaissé pendant la guerre civile (1975-1990), la vallée de la Qadisha et la forêt des arbres de Dieu ont été classées au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO en 1998. Malgré cela, ils doivent faire face aujourd’hui à de nombreux défis.
En effet, depuis la fin des années 1990, on assiste, à cause du réchauffement climatique, à une prolifération de Cephalcia tannourinensis, des insectes qui dévorent les aiguilles de cèdres et pondent dans leurs bourgeons. Depuis 10 ans, on considère que cela a entraîné la mort de plus de 7,5% des cèdres de la réverse. Par ailleurs, afin de se disséminer, de germer et de grandir, les graines de cèdres nécessitent un mélange de pluie, de neige et de givre. Ces conditions météorologiques, très rares au Moyen-Orient, ne sont réunies dans la montagne libanaise qu’entre 1500 et 1800m d’altitude. Le réchauffement climatique vient bouleverser ces conditions : les pluies se font plus rares et la sécheresse plus intense. L’écosystème des cèdres se déplace donc en altitude, sa taille se réduisant en conséquence. Dans le cas où l’altitude n’est pas assez importante, des pans entiers de forêt disparaissent. Il y a quelques années, les cèdres étaient encore présents dans une large partie de la région libanaise. On suppose qu’en 2100, il n’en subsistera qu’une faible partie dans la région nord du pays.[9]
![](https://patrimoinedorient.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/fresque-1024x683.jpg)
Source : libnanews
Par ailleurs, si l’authenticité du complexe religieux a été préservée, son état de conservation est aujourd’hui encore relativement variable. Certains édifices religieux sont dégradés, et de nombreuses fresques ont disparu des murs des églises et des ermitages. L’empiétement urbain de constructions humaines aux abords des sites protégés et notamment sur les crêtes surplombant la vallée engendre un risque considérable de pollution visuelle. L’UNESCO souligne aussi le problème important que constitue l’absence d’un cadre juridique contraignant et de plan de gestion d’ensemble à long terme du site ainsi que l’insuffisance des ressources allouées.[10] Cependant dans le rapport rendu par le Liban à l’UNESCO sur la gestion du site[11], plusieurs avancées étaient abordées, notamment la mise en œuvre du projet pour la « Réhabilitation et la valorisation de Wadi Qadisha ». Ce projet financé à la hauteur d’un demi-million d’euros par l’Agence Italienne de coopération au développement en collaboration avec le Bureau de l’UNESCO à Beyrouth et la Direction Générale des Antiquités libanaise pourrait ainsi concourir à la sauvegarde de ce patrimoine millénaire et emblématique du Liban.
[1] Poème de Khalil Gibran : أعطني الناي, « Donne-moi la flûte ». Repris par Fairuz en chanson : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uejnsfKdDjo
[2] Persécuté tout d’abord pour l’Empire Byzantin pour son acceptation du Concile de Chalcedoine et son non-monophysisme au VIème siècle, puis chassé par la conquête musulmane au VIIème.
[3] Terme religieux qui désigne des moines se retirant de la société pour vivre dans la solitude et s’adonner à la contemplation.
[4] Jeanine Abdul Massih, Anis Chaaya et May Hajj, « Deir es-Salib, un monastère-ermitage rupestre de la Vallée Qadicha », Bulletin d’études orientales, 2013, https://journals.openedition.org/beo/1364
[5] François El Bacha, « Liban/Patrimoine: la vallée Sainte de Qadisha », libnanews, 18 octobre 2019, https://libnanews.com/liban-patrimoine-vallee-sainte-qadisha/
[6] Arabe écrit en alphabet syriaque
[7] Rania Raad Tawk, « Au cœur de l’immémoriale sérénité de Qannoubine », L’Orient-Le-Jour, 27 mai 2015, https://www.lorientlejour.com/article/926823/sur-les-traces-des-premiers-chretiens-dorient-a-qannoubine.html
[8] Ermitage en arabe
[9] GEO, « Liban : le cèdre, emblème du pays, menacé par le réchauffement climatique », 28 novembre 2018, https://www.geo.fr/environnement/au-pays-du-cedre-le-rechauffement-climatique-menace-lembleme-du-liban-193645
[10]UNESCO, Etat de conservation de la Vallée de la Qadisha et la Forêt des Cèdres de Dieu https://whc.unesco.org/fr/soc/3938
[11] UNESCO, Rapport de l’État partie (Liban) sur l’état de conservation du site, Rapports sur l’état de conservation de la Vallée de la Qadisha et de Tyr, https://whc.unesco.org/fr/list/850/documents/
Pour aller plus loin :
Liban : état et enjeux d’un patrimoine naturel en danger, 07 /11/2019
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