06/08/20 par Victor Querton
Dans un précédent article, Ilham Younes évoquait les étendues désertiques de Wadi Rum comme l’un des endroits les plus somptueux d’Arabie (1). Ce qui frappe à Wadi Rum, ce n’est d’ailleurs pas seulement son paysage de falaises et de plateaux désertiques, mais également les manifestations d’un patrimoine culturel antique exceptionnel qui selon l’UNESCO : « témoignent de 12 000 ans d’occupation humaine et d’interaction avec le milieu naturel » de Jordanie (2). Ce site est le produit d’un patrimoine naturel investi par la culture de ses habitants et est ainsi considéré comme un patrimoine mixte naturel et culturel. En effet, le patrimoine mixte correspond à la présence en un même lieu d’un patrimoine culturel et d’un patrimoine naturel qui, pris séparément, sont chacun inscrits sur les listes des patrimoines culturel ou naturel de l’UNESCO. Il s’agit donc de la combinaison en un même endroit d’un héritage culturel exceptionnel au sein d’un environnement naturel unique et remarquable.
De cette double catégorie qu’est le patrimoine mixte, la Méditerranée orientale et la zone saharienne regorgent de trésors, puisque sur plus d’un millier de sites inscrits sur la liste du patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO, seulement 39 sont répertoriés comme des biens mixtes et 6 d’entre eux (soit 15%) sont situés dans cet ensemble. Ces sites inscrits au patrimoine mixte sont le témoignage de la présence humaine et du passage des civilisations dans des cadres naturels exceptionnels. La concentration importante du patrimoine mixte mondial dans cet espace interroge quant à son unicité et sa diversité.
Le patrimoine mixte : à l’origine des hommes
Le désert du Wadi Rum, situé à l’extrémité sud de la Jordanie, est un exemple paradigmatique des spécificités que l’on peut retrouver dans cette aire géographique. En effet, le site naturel partage des caractéristiques essentielles avec d’autres sites du patrimoine mixte situés au Sahara. On peut ainsi, à plusieurs égards, le rapprocher du massif de l’Ennedi (Tchad) et du site de Tassili n’Ajjer (Algérie) : tous deux marqués par la présence de peintures, gravures et vestiges préhistoriques au cœur de plateaux et zones désertiques.
Le Massif de l’Ennedi situé dans le nord du Tchad, entre Sahara libyen et Soudan, est constitué de plateaux de grès au cœur desquels l’érosion a creusé des gorges humides et remplies d’eau appelées geltas. La plus importante guelta du Sahara est d’ailleurs celle d’Archei localisée dans le massif de l’Ennedi. En plus de formations géologiques rares et de la biodiversité particulière qui s’y développe, le plateau de l’Ennedi abrite un ensemble exceptionnel de peintures et gravures qui en fait selon l’Unesco le plus important site d’art rupestre saharien (3). Représentant des animaux, des vêtements et des scènes de la vie quotidienne, ce leg est un témoignage inestimable de la vie préhistorique dans l’environnement désertique original des gueltas.
Les caractéristiques du Tassili n’Ajjer au Sahara algérien sont assez proches de celles du massif de l’Ennedi. Il s’agit également d’un bien mixte trouvant sa source dans les formations rocheuses d’un massif de plateaux s’étalant à plus de 1000 mètres d’altitude. Il constitue une réserve naturelle pour la biosphère depuis 1986 et la faune peut s’y déplacer librement parmi les emblématiques « forêts de rochers » qui font la renommée de ce lieu (4). A l’instar du Wadi Rum et de l’Ennedi, Tassili n’Ajjer apporte un témoignage exceptionnel sur la vie préhistorique dans le désert avec sa collection d’œuvres typiques de l’art rupestre.
Ces sites qui conjuguent art rupestre et paysages naturels exceptionnels sont, au-delà de leur beauté, porteurs d’informations essentielles sur la vie des premiers hommes dans la région. La vallée du Wadi Rum s’inscrit parfaitement dans cette collection de zones désertiques où l’art rupestre est un formidable legs des premières occupations préhistoriques.
Un patrimoine mixte portant l’héritage de berceaux civilisationnels
Le site des Ahwar du sud de l’Iraq témoigne d’un héritage en continuité avec les sites mixtes cités précédemment. Centré sur les vestiges des villes mésopotamiennes d’Uruk, Ur et Eridu, cette zone apporte selon l’UNESCO : « un témoignage exceptionnel sur l’essor et le déclin ultérieur des sociétés et centres urbains du sud de la Mésopotamie » (5). L’ensemble entre ainsi en résonnance avec les reliquats préhistoriques de Wadi Rum et des sites sahariens de Tassili n’Ajjer et du Massif de l’Ennedi, puisqu’il représente l’étape du processus civilisationnel successive à la sédentarisation : l’urbanisation et l’aménagement du territoire. Dans le même temps, le site agit comme une réserve naturelle essentielle puisque les marais d’eau douce et les remontées marines d’eau salée à travers les marées créent les conditions nécessaires à la préservation et au développement d’une faune unique. Des poissons marins remontent les deltas gorgés d’eau salée pour s’y reproduire et les marais forment une halte bienvenue pour les oiseaux migrateurs se dirigeant vers le nord, par le désert d’Arabie.
Les deux derniers biens mixtes de la Méditerranée orientale : Hiérapolis-Pamukkale et Göreme situés tous deux en Turquie peuvent être rapprochés des monastères balkaniques de la région d’Ohrid (Macédoine du Nord) du Mont Athos et des Météores (Grèce) également inscrits au patrimoine mixte de l’UNESCO. En effet, les sites turcs de Hiérapolis-Pamukkale et de Göreme sont imprégnés de la même civilisation grecque orthodoxe qui a érigé les monastères des Balkans.
Le site de Hiérapoli-Pamukkale, situé au sud-ouest de la Turquie, fut investi par la dynastie grecque des Attalides pour y fonder une station thermale avant de passer sous contrôle romain et d’y voir fleurir les églises de style paléochrétien dès le Ve siècle (6). L’installation d’une station thermale sur le site de Pamukkale est tout sauf un hasard puisque les formations géologiques et les sources chaudes y découpent un paysage de terrasses et de bassins aquatiques à l’esthétique indéniable.
La vallée de Göreme, située en Capadocce, est à rapprocher plus étroitement du patrimoine monastique des Balkans que nous avons évoqué, puisqu’il résulte directement de la formation de villes et de sanctuaires troglodytes par des moines anachorètes en Cappadoce au IVe siècle (7). Dans ce paysage rocheux, l’aménagement de sanctuaires ignorés pendant des siècles du monde extérieur permet d’observer aujourd’hui des traces d’art rupestre et byzantin qui peuvent sembler les vestiges d’une civilisation disparue.
Ainsi le patrimoine mixte en Méditerranée orientale et au Sahara constitue une véritable fresque historique cohérente, relatant l’installation de l’homme dans des environnements désertiques de la préhistoire jusqu’aux premiers siècles de notre ère. Deux ensembles s’y distinguent clairement avec d’un côté Wadi Rum, l’Ennedi et Tassili n’Ajjer que l’on retient pour leurs vestiges d’art rupestre et de l’autre le site des Ahwar et Hiérapolis-Pamukkale qui montrent les premiers pas de civilisations qui ont su tirer profit de leurs environnements respectifs pour se développer. Le site de Göreme tient plutôt de la seconde catégorie mais offre une similitude essentielle avec la première par son environnement rocheux et désertique. Il faut toutefois considérer les sites mixtes de cet ensemble comme une fraction du groupe plus large de la totalité des biens inscrits sur la liste du patrimoine mixte de l’UNESCO. Ainsi, au-delà de la comparaison interne, il est essentiel de mettre l’ensemble de ces biens en perspective pour mieux en saisir le sens et leur spécificité.
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