Le 22/07/2020 par Diane Laurent
La « Terre de l’encens » s’étend des montagnes du Dhofar, à la frontière du Yémen, au désert du Rub al-Khali (« le quart vide ») à Oman. Cet espace naturel doit son renom à la présence d’un ensemble de vallées abritant des arbres à encens (boswellia sacra), source première de l’essor commercial de la région à travers l’histoire. La région accueille également trois sites historiques majeurs situés dans un périmètre de 180 km environ. La vallée de Dawkah en particulier ainsi que les ports de Khor Rori (aussi connu sous son appellation latine, Moscha Lichen), d’Al-Balid et l’oasis de Shisr qui lui sont associés.
Inscrit au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO depuis 2000, cet espace constitue un témoignage unique du rôle prépondérant de la région dans les circuits commerciaux de la méditerranée et du monde jusqu’au XVIe siècle, date de l’invasion portugaise qui mit fin à la prospérité et l’indépendance économique d’Oman.
L’encens, produit phare de ces échanges et particulièrement prisé durant la période de l’Antiquité, fait la réputation de la région sud de la péninsule Arabique en raison de la qualité reconnue de ses récoltes. Il fournit également des indices essentiels pour l’étude archéologique et anthropologique de la région et des civilisations du Proche et du Moyen-Orient. En effet, l’oliban (al-luban), produit dérivé de l’encens, employé pour les fumigations, est omniprésent dans les coutumes aussi bien religieuses que profanes de la région
Les quatre sites historiques du commerce d’encens à Oman
La vallée de Dawkah est traversée par un ouadi (fleuve au flux irrégulier, déterminé par les précipitations saisonnières). Cette disposition naturelle rend le climat propice à la culture du boswellia sacra, arbre originaire du Dhofar et dont la résine sert à la production d’encens. En Antiquité, ce produit est considéré comme extrêmement précieux et constitue la plus grande richesse de la région bien que celle-ci soit également productrice de minerais.
L’étendue du commerce d’encens transparaît d’autant plus à travers les vestiges des ports et villes fortifiés de la région. En effet, le port de Khor Rori (IVe siècle av. J.-C. – Ve siècle ap. J-C.) situé à quelques 40 km de Salallah, domine un point d’eau douce (khor) qui lui servait de port naturel puisque relié à la mer. Les vestiges de la forteresse et des tours, juchées au sommet d’un éperon rocheux, témoignent d’un système défensif plus étendu dont la ville n’était qu’une partie. Avant sa désintégration au Ve siècle, Khor Rori constitua le cœur du commerce de la région. Lui succéda ensuite dans ce rôle le port d’Al-Balid, directement situé sur les rives de l’océan indien et qui fut actif du VIIIe siècle au XVIe siècle, plus précisément en 1507 où la ville, malgré ses fortifications, cède à l’invasion côtière menée par l’empire portugais et qui mènera à une période d’occupation de plus d’un siècle.
Shisr, situé à quelques 170 km de Salallah dans l’intérieur, était un point d’eau douce important pour les caravanes marchandes, faisant le relais entre les routes du désert Rub Al-Khali dans l’arrière-pays et les ports de commerce et vallées productrices d’encens. Des traces de fortifications ainsi que les vestiges d’un dôme en calcaire recouvrant la source d’eau douce figurent parmi les vestiges de cette oasis.
Oman, carrefour des routes commerciales
Outre la disposition géographique et architecturale de ces quatre sites du commerce d’encens, révélateur de l’organisation minutieuse et de l’importance de cette activité dans la région depuis la Haute Antiquité, des vestiges archéologiques d’une autre nature apportent des informations complémentaires quant à l’étendue de ce commerce et la place de l’Arabie méridionale dans les échanges mondiaux jusqu’à la Renaissance. En effet, des objets retrouvés sur le site plus ancien du port de Khor Rori nous documentent sur la transition d’un commerce par voie terrestre essentiellement à un commerce maritime au tournant de l’ère chrétienne, indiquant par la même occasion la position stratégique de la ville sur la route de l’encens.
Cette route, qui prospéra entre le IIIe siècle av. J-C et le IIe siècle de notre ère, est représentative du commerce florissant entre les peuples méditerranéens mais également indiens et dont Oman constituait un passage obligé. D’autre part, la découverte au port d’Al-Balid d’artéfacts chinois datant de l’époque des Ming (XIVe – XVIIe siècle) témoignent de l’essor économique de la région sous la période islamique, et de son importance en tant qu’étape de la route maritime de la soie. C’est d’ailleurs lors de la découverte du site archéologique d’Al-Balid que furent mis au jour près de 50 kg d’encens, massés sur le sol d’un entrepôt. Il s’agit en effet d’un fait assez rare car les traces archéologiques de l’encens qui était considéré au Moyen-Age encore comme un produit de luxe, ne nous parviennent souvent que sous forme de résidus dans des brûle-parfums ou sur des étoffes. D’autre part, les sources textuelles ne manquent pas de s’étendre sur le processus de production de l’encens et confirment l’essor de l’activité commerciale de la région à cette époque. Marco Polo lui-même ne manque pas de rapporter ses observations de la région au XIIIe siècle. Il mentionne notamment que :
Du côté des auteurs arabes, notons la visite d’Ibn Battûta, voyageur célèbre d’origine berbère, au XIVe siècle, dont ce dernier rapporte une description de l’arbre à encens et du processus de récolte de la résine.
L’encens et Oman de nos jours
L’encens occupe aujourd’hui encore un rôle dans l’économie des pays où l’on trouve l’arbre boswellia sacra : c’est le cas du Yémen ou encore de Oman. Toutefois, son poids reste mineur relativement aux époques antérieures. Le processus de récolte s’est d’ailleurs relativement préservé et correspond globalement à la description qu’en donnait Ibn Battûta, il y a sept siècles déjà. La résine est extraite à partir d’une incision faite sur le tronc de l’arbre à l’aide d’un couteau mangeb, puis est récoltée une fois séchée avant d’être vendue sur le marché. L’encens conserve également une fonction particulière dans la vie sociale des omanais.
En effet, on retrouve encore aujourd’hui des usages pluriséculaires de l’encens parmi les populations de la péninsule Arabique. Certaines pratiques se perpétuent comme la cérémonie de l’accueil. Ce rituel pratiqué depuis l’époque abbasside veut que l’assistance se parfume et respire les fumigations d’encens provenant d’un brûle-parfum. D’autres usages perdurent également dans des domaines très divers. L’encens est par exemple employé pour se protéger des esprits, djins, pour parfumer la maison ou encore les vêtements et les voiles. Il est également reconnu pour ses vertus thérapeutiques et se trouve incorporé dans de nombreux remèdes.
Certaines initiatives officielles du sultanat d’Oman peuvent donner l’impression d’une revivification artificielle de l’encens et de la culture historique qui lui est attachée à des fins touristiques, potentiellement pour compenser le déclin de la pêche à la perle traditionnelle. Toutefois, une telle hypothèse se révèle très réductrice du rôle réellement central de l’encens dans la société omanaise. En effet, bien que le commerce et l’exportation aient presque entièrement été interrompus à partir du XVIe siècle, l’usage de l’encens dans la région semble continu dans l’histoire, son utilisation remonte au IIIe millénaire avant notre ère, comme l’attestent différentes découvertes archéologiques. Ainsi loin de se limiter à une simple image de marque pour le pays, la persistance de la production d’encens et de son utilisation à Oman est une preuve de l’empreinte de ce patrimoine vivant dans l’imaginaire national et l’identité omanaise.
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